I spent just a single day in Dehradun. Not something I had planned but rather part of a larger trip throughout Uttarakhand, where I arrived in the morning and left the next day. I had no itinerary or list of must-try restaurants that I had wanted to visit while here. All I had was the intention of making the most of it. This way, I left my hotel right after breakfast and let the place surprise me.
What Dehradun’s food actually is?
Dehradun is the capital of Uttarakhand, located in the Doon Valley between the Sivalik Hills and the Mussoorie Ridge. It is a university town and a garrison town. It is also becoming increasingly popular among people who move here to find quieter surroundings as opposed to Delhi.
The food here is a reflection of its past and present. The city offers traditional Garhwali cuisine alongside a wide variety of street food. It also has many bakeries that have become popular because of the numerous boarding schools in the city, as well as café options that are well worth exploring.
Paltan Bazaar: Where the day begins
Paltan Bazaar is Dehradun’s main commercial street, running through the heart of the old city. It is busy, dense, and full of small eateries and snack stalls that don’t have much signage because their regulars already know where they are.
I started here in the mid-morning. A stall near the clock tower was serving hot kachori with aloo sabzi or aloo curry. The kachori was small and crisp, the potato curry thin and properly spiced with a sharpness from the tamarind. A strong cup of tea from the stall next door followed. That combination, standing on a busy Dehradun pavement at ten in the morning, was one of the better starts to a food day I have had in any city.
Ellora’s Bakery: The stop everyone mentions for good reason
Ellora’s is one of Dehradun’s oldest bakeries. Its reputation has endured for so long that even people who have not visited in years still mention it whenever the city comes up in conversation. It sits in the Rajpur Road area and has been baking since the 1950s.
I went in the early afternoon. The glass cases displayed an assortment of biscuits, cakes, and local specialities, including the famous Dehradun kaju biscuits. These short, slightly sweet cashew cookies have a delicate crumb and disappear much faster than you expect. I bought a small box. I finished most of it before leaving Rajpur Road.
Garhwali thali: The meal that made me sit down properly
Garhwali food is often overlooked outside Uttarakhand. It is simple hill food that provides you with a hearty meal from local cereals and pulses. I decided to visit a small restaurant near the Survey of India area where I found a basic Garhwali thali. The main dish was chainsoo, a dal made from black gram which is roasted beforehand and gives it a unique flavour.
I also got kafuli, which is a green curry made from spinach and fenugreek, and a bowl of plain rice with generous amounts of ghee on top. It was not a fancy meal, but it is the kind of meal that is perfect for a cool, pleasant afternoon in the hills. I enjoyed my food at a slow pace and found it immensely enjoyable.
Café culture on Rajpur Road: Better than expected
Rajpur Road is Dehradun’s main upmarket stretch, lined with cafés, restaurants, and shops that reflect the growing population of students and remote workers. The café options here are genuinely good, developed enough to offer real coffee and a quiet corner.
I stopped at a small café on Rajpur Road in the late afternoon. A proper espresso, a window seat, and an hour of watching Dehradun traffic move at a pace that felt noticeably gentler than any city. I had a slice of walnut cake that the café made in-house. It was dense, not too sweet, and delicious.
Where to stay for a food-first Dehradun day
The best hotels in Dehradun for a food journey are located near Rajpur Road or are easily accessible by public transport from Paltan Bazaar. Both these areas allow you to grab a bite without travelling too far.
Hotels close to Rajpur Road will give you bakeries and cafes that are just a few steps away. Paltan Bazaar, on the other hand, is just outside the hotel door. A hotel in either of the two places is sure to provide the best of both worlds.
What one day in Dehradun has to offer?
The day gives you the real picture of the place’s charm. There aren’t any breathtaking landmarks here to attract you. Yet there is something simple and peaceful about the place that stays with you. Good bread, chilled litchis, and a cup of coffee enjoyed on Rajpur Road while the sun streams through the window capture its quiet charm. The next morning, I was already looking forward to the kachori from the clock tower.